CHRISTGAU CONSUMER GUIDE

THE STANKY BROWN GROUP: "Our Pleasure to Serve You" (Sire):: You can take the Ozark Mountain Daredevils out of the country, but you can't turn them into the Doobie Brothers. D Plus. PAUL BUTTERFIELD: "Put It in Your Ear" (Bearsville) :: Butter has long since achieved an authentic blues style; the modishly far-out rhythms and textures here are so authentic they recall Jimmy Witherspoon or Bobby Bland casting desperately about for a hit. The bluesman fluffs one ballad and sounds a little strange doing romantic patter, arid producer Henry Glover has for some reason set his own "Breadline" amid enough instruments to feed a family of four for six months, but once you conquer your suspicion that this is a disaster it sounds pretty good.